40% ABV
Calvados
France
From Orchards to Oak
In the rolling hills of Normandy’s Pays d’Auge, where the climate is too cool and damp for grape cultivation, apple orchards have thrived for centuries. The region’s temperate maritime weather, influenced by the nearby English Channel, creates ideal conditions for growing the bitter and bittersweet cider apples that form the foundation of Calvados. Unlike the sweet apples found in grocery stores, these varieties—including Bedan, Frequin Rouge, and Mettais—are tannic, acidic, and often too astringent to eat fresh. When fermented and distilled, they create one of the world’s most distinctive and underappreciated spirits.
The Berneroy estate has produced Calvados since 1920, when it was founded by the Desfrieches family in the heart of Pays d’Auge. The estate covers more than 30 hectares of apple orchards, growing more than 30 varieties of apples selected for Calvados production. The apples are harvested in autumn, pressed into cider, and fermented slowly over several months. This cider is then double-distilled in traditional copper pot stills, much like single malt Scotch whisky, a method required for all Pays d’Auge Calvados.
The distillation takes place between November and March, when the cellar master carefully monitors the spirit as it runs through the still. The first distillation produces a “petite eau” of about 30% alcohol. The second distillation concentrates this to around 70% alcohol, though only the heart of the run—the cleanest, most flavorful portion—is kept for aging. The heads and tails are discarded or redistilled.
What separates XO Calvados from younger expressions is time. The “XO” designation requires at least six years of aging in oak barrels, though many producers age their XO expressions much longer. Berneroy uses both new and used French oak casks, carefully managing the spirit’s development. The oak imparts vanilla, spice, and tannin structure while the spirit’s natural apple character mellows and gains complexity. Over time, the raw, fiery eau-de-vie becomes a sophisticated, amber-colored spirit with layers of dried fruit, baking spices, and woody notes.
The Misunderstood Spirit
Despite its long history and protected designation of origin status, Calvados remains one of the most overlooked spirits in the world, at least outside France. While cognac and Armagnac command premium prices and worldwide recognition, Calvados is often relegated to a cooking ingredient or an obscure digestif. This is puzzling given that Calvados production rivals cognac in complexity and craftsmanship.
Part of the issue may be timing. Calvados production was devastated during World War II, as Normandy was the site of the D-Day landings and fierce fighting. Many distilleries were destroyed, and production stopped. The region’s recovery was slow,
and by the time Calvados producers were ready to compete again, cognac and Scotch whisky had already secured their positions in the premium spirits market.
Another factor is perception. Apple brandy does not carry the same cachet as grape brandy or aged whisky. Yet for those willing to explore, Calvados offers exceptional value and complexity. A well-aged Calvados like Berneroy XO delivers a drinking experience that can rival cognacs costing twice the price.
Pairing by: Erik Calviño
Tasting Notes: Berneroy Calvados XO
The Berneroy XO opens with an inviting nose of baked apples, cinnamon, and vanilla, joined by toasted oak. As it breathes in the glass, notes of dried apricot, honey, and warm spices emerge. On the palate, the spirit is silky smooth with flavors of apple, ripe pear, and brown sugar balanced by oak tannins and baking spices. The finish is long and warming, with lingering notes of candied fruit, vanilla, and a subtle oakiness that keeps you coming back. A drop of water can open it up, but it is easy to go overboard and dilute it. A single large ice cube is also acceptable.
Cigar Pairing: La Aurora Family Creed Fuerte Sol
Calvados brandies are tricky to pair. It is easy to lose the delicate apple and pear flavors when tasting with a cigar. This combination is not spared from that, but what the Berneroy XO adds to the cigar is interesting. After a sip of the brandy, the next puff of the La Aurora Family Creed Fuerte Sol toro adds a dried fruit element to the cigar’s profile of smooth pepper, earth, cedar, and nuts. The cigar, in turn, imparts a honey and citrus combination to the brandy.
