40% ABV
Cognac
France
The Art of the Cellar Master
In the world of cognac, few roles carry as much mystique and responsibility as the cellar master. These custodians oversee spirits that have been aging longer than most of us have been alive. At Rémy Martin, the cellar master doesn’t just blend cognac; he orchestrates a symphony of eaux-de-vie, some resting in French oak casks since before their predecessors held the position.
Baptiste Loiseau, the current cellar master at Rémy Martin, is only the fifth person to hold this title since the house was founded in 1724. That’s five people in 301 years. For perspective, the United States has had 47 presidents in less time than Rémy Martin has had cellar masters. The position demands technical expertise, an exceptional palate, and the ability to think in decades rather than quarters, making decisions today that will not fully reveal themselves for generations.
The Prime Cellar Selection series is Loiseau’s most personal work, a collection of rare cognacs drawn from specific cellars within the estate, each with its own microclimate and character. Cellar No. 16 is one of the oldest and most revered at Rémy Martin, tucked away in cool darkness where only the most exceptional eaux-de-vie are allowed to slumber.
Cognac Fine Champagne
Let’s clear up a common confusion. Cognac “Champagne” has nothing to do with sparkling wine. In cognac, Champagne refers to the chalky, limestone-rich soil that defines the region’s finest growing areas. Grande Champagne is the premier cru of the region. There are six crus in total: Petite Champagne, Borderies, Fins Bois, Bon Bois, and Bois Ordinaires.
Rémy Martin is one of the few major cognac houses that produces only Fine Champagne cognac. This designation means the blend contains eaux-de-vie only from Grande Champagne and Petite Champagne, with at least 50% from Grande Champagne. It can be confusing, but the point is that Rémy Martin uses only the most exclusive crus to maintain the highest quality.
From Grape to Glass
Most people don’t realize that cognac starts as bad wine. Ugni Blanc grapes grown in the Cognac region produce a thin, acidic wine with low alcohol content that would be undrinkable as is. But it’s perfect for distillation. The high acidity acts as a natural preservative, and the low alcohol means more flavor concentrates during distillation.
That wine is distilled twice in traditional copper pot stills, a process that takes about 24 hours and produces a clear spirit at around 70% alcohol. This raw eau-de-vie goes into French oak casks to age for years, even decades, slowly taking on color, tannins, and complex flavors from the wood as the alcohol mellows and integrates.
The cellar master tastes thousands of aging eaux-de-vie, tracking their development and deciding when each is ready to be blended. Some might be perfect at 10 years; others need 30, 40, or even 50 years to reach their peak. For Prime Cellar Selection No. 16, Loiseau selected eaux-de-vie ranging from 28 to 36 years old, all from Grande Champagne and that specific cellar where the conditions were just right.
Pairing by: Erik Calviño
Tasting Notes: Rémy Martin Prime Cellar Selection No. 16
The cognac presents a deep amber color with copper highlights in the glass. On the nose, there’s an immediate burst of dried apricot and stone fruit, followed by layers of vanilla, toasted almond, and sweet pipe tobacco. As it opens, there are hints of cinnamon, honey, and a floral note of jasmine. The palate is remarkably smooth and viscous, coating the mouth with flavors of caramelized fig and butterscotch. There’s a beautiful spice component, mostly nutmeg and white pepper, that builds gradually. The oak presence is evident but elegantly integrated.
Cigar Pairing: Montecristo 90th Anniversary
The Montecristo 90th Anniversary in the Nacional format is a thick, robusto extra measuring 5 ½ x 56 with a supple wrapper. It has a complex profile of cedar, dried fruit, smooth pepper, and toasted almonds. A sip of the cognac adds a tropical fruit component to the blend that lingers for several puffs. The result is a fantastic, elegant pairing.
