Erin Go Smoke

Ireland may be best known for Guinness, W.B. Yeats and U2, but for the cigar enthusiast, the Emerald Isle offers a surprisingly welcoming outdoor smoking culture, along with dramatic coastlines, countless castles and world-class golf courses. What began as a weeklong journey through Dublin and several stops along the Wild Atlantic Way turned into an adventure to find  the perfect outdoor spots to enjoy a fine smoke.

Let’s address the elephant in the room: indoor smoking has been banned in Ireland since 2004, making it one of the first countries in the world to implement such comprehensive legislation. This means cigar lounges, as we know them, simply don’t exist anywhere in the country. But I learned that Ireland’s outdoor smoking culture more than compensates for what you might miss indoors, assuming the weather cooperates. 

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The Preparation: Bring Your Own 

Before we dive into locations, a word of advice that will save your trip: bring enough cigars for the entire trip. While Ireland has a few tobacco shops, dedicated cigar retailers are scarce outside of Dublin. The exception—and it’s a magnificent one—is James J. Fox on Grafton Street in Dublin. Established in 1881, this beautifully appointed shop houses one of Europe’s finest selections, and feels more like a gentleman’s library than a retail store.  The staff can set you up with everything from everyday smokes to special occasion cigars, plus all the accessories you might need for your Irish adventure. Their house cigar, blended by Hamlet Paredes and produced at the Oscar Valladares Cigar Factory in Honduras, is excellent and can only be purchased at a James J. Fox location (the others are in London). 

One practical advantage that cigar smokers will appreciate: During the summer months, Ireland’s summer days stretch impossibly long, with daylight lingering until nearly 10 p.m. This extended golden hour creates perfect conditions for outdoor smoking, allowing you to savor both your cigars and Ireland’s legendary sunsets without feeling rushed. 

Dublin: Urban Sophistication Meets Outdoor Freedom 

Dublin’s outdoor terraces and beer gardens create the right backdrop for cigar enjoyment. The city’s pub culture embraces the outdoor smoking areas, and many establishments have invested in heated, covered terraces that remain comfortable even when the Irish weather shows its temperamental side. 

Grogan’s Castle Lounge on South William Street exemplifies Dublin’s pub culture, with its welcoming patio perfect for enjoying a cigar alongside perfectly poured pints of Guinness. After a visit to James J. Fox, just a short walk away, settling in at the outdoor seating area of this legendary spot is ideal for soaking in the genuine Dublin atmosphere and watching the Irish world go by. 

To satisfy your sweet tooth, there are endless options in Dublin, but I found Dolce Sicily to be the best. The pastries are world-class – don’t miss the pistachio cannolo-  as is the espresso. Best of all, though; the outside tables are perfect for a smoke. 

Here’s a rule of thumb worth knowing as a cigar smoking traveler: When you’re not allowed to smoke indoors, look to the rooftops. And there’s no better place to enjoy a fine meal, amazing cocktails, and your favorite cigar with a view of Dublin from above than Sophie’s. As an appetizer, get the confit duck croquettes and for the main course you can’t go wrong with the 10 oz. ribeye, but don’t sleep on the pizza, it’s surprisingly excellent. 

In good weather, Dublin is an outdoor smoker’s dream location. Everything from the benches on St. Stephen’s Green, to walking through Temple Bar and Grafton Street, the city is teeming with activity, and no one seems bothered by your cigar smoke. 

Golf: May the Links Rise to Meet You 

Ireland is golf mad, especially for links style golf. And if it’s your first time playing this distinctive flavor of the game, you’ll want to play a few rounds to get the hang of it. 

Lahinch Golf Club, perched along the crashing waves of the Atlantic coast in County Clare, offers world-class golf with breathtaking views. The club’s outdoor areas welcome cigar smokers, and there’s something magical about enjoying a post-round pint accompanied by your favorite smoke after the course and conditions have had their way with you. 

The club features two courses, but the main attraction is the Old Course. Originally designed by Old Tom Morris, then Dr. Alister MacKenzie, and most recently Dr. Martin Hawtree, the course – often called the “St. Andrews of Ireland” – challenges golfers with its dramatic dunes, blind shots, and ever-present coastal winds. 

Lahinch’s Castle Course offers a perfect links crash course before playing the Old Course. It isn’t anywhere near as interesting or as difficult, but it does feature the ruins of Dough Castle as a backdrop for the 7^th hole as well as a tidal river that winds through the course. 

For those seeking a links experience without the championship price tag, Spanish Point Golf Club delivers. This shorter course still captures the essence of Irish links golf, and the casual atmosphere makes you want to stick around long after your round. The outdoor areas offer a small but relaxed area shielded from the wind with a view of the first tee. 

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Small Towns Along the Wild Atlantic Way 

Lahinch isn’t only for golf; the seaside town has a lively music scene anchored by Kenny’s Bar on Main Street. The pub features live acts six days a week (it’s closed on Monday), pours perfect pints of Guinness, and serves elevated pub classics. Perhaps most importantly, Kenny’s has a great, partially covered, smoking area. 

Hugo’s Bakery is a must when you’re in Lahinch. Located a couple of minutes from the golf course, the bakery makes incredible sourdough and life-changing pastries. I’m partial to the kouign amann but their signature pastry, the pastel de nata, is ridiculously good as well. I will return to this tucked-away corner of Ireland just to have those two treats again, and maybe one more crack at the golf course. 

Dingle, on the southwestern tip of the Dingle Peninsula, proved to be a cigar smoker’s paradise. The town’s numerous pubs feature expansive outdoor areas, many with heaters and covered sections. Dick Mack’s Pub, famous for its eclectic décor and celebrity visitors, has an outdoor courtyard where locals and tourists gather over pints and smokes. Dick Mack’s is unique in that it is part pub, part leather shop, and part brewery. Don’t miss this spot; it is still family owned and operated and offers a glimpse of what a classic Irish pub was like in the early 1900s. 

The town of Dingle lights up in the evening with numerous pubs featuring traditional Irish music or rock covers. Some are clearly meant for a younger audience, but most cater to all. It’s not unusual to see strangers of different ages conversing or buying each other pints. 

Dingle can be hit or miss with food; heavy tourism has created a glut of tourist-trappy eateries that serve mediocre food at Michelin prices. On a busy weekend, this can ruin your dinner plans. Save yourself the headache and make a reservation at The Fish Box, a couple of doors down from Dick Mack’s. It’s a family-run restaurant that serves the seafood they catch on their trawler and prepares it in award-winning dishes. The Fish Box appears regularly on best-of lists and travel guides of all types and it lives up to the hype. 

Perhaps the most memorable smoke of the entire trip happened at what locals call Star Wars Meditation Rock on the Dingle Peninsula. This dramatic outcropping, where scenes from The Last Jedi were filmed, offers breathtaking and uncluttered views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Blasket Islands. Standing on these ancient cliffs with a cigar in hand, watching the waves crash hundreds of feet below, forces you to stop and take it all in. 

The remoteness of the location adds to the appeal. You drive down a tight, rural road in the sparsely populated western edge of the peninsula, driving past mostly pastureland, until you arrive at a lonesome but well-kept house with a homemade sign as your only indication that you’re in the right place. After parking in the small lot steps from the house, you’re welcomed by a friendly pooch, a donation box, and another sign telling you it’s a 20-minute hike to the spot. The walk/hike is perfect for a smoke as you trek past sheep and a meandering creek until you arrive at the spot. The journey makes it so that there are few tourists, giving you all the room you need to enjoy this stunning landscape. 

Ten minutes away you’ll find a hidden gem for beer enthusiasts, the West Kerry Brewery (Tig Bhric in Irish), where they craft an exceptional porter called Carraig Dhubh (Black Rock). This rich, chocolatey brew pairs exceptionally with medium to full-bodied cigars, and the brewery’s outdoor tasting area provides a spartan but adequate setting to discover this pairing. Or you can skip the cigar and enjoy the beer indoors by the fireplace, which looks like it’s been used a time or two. 

Galway’s Latin Quarter buzzes with outdoor activity, and the city’s numerous pubs and restaurants have embraced elaborate outdoor setups. The King’s Head offers multiple outdoor levels, while the outdoor seating area at Tigh Neachtain provides one of the best, cigar-friendly people watching spots in the city. The pub is known to pour one of the better pints of Guinness in Galway while serving up local seafood. 

Located across from the Galway Docks, Rúibín Bar & Restaurant deserves a special mention. This contemporary restaurant elevates classically Irish ingredients with contemporary influences, creating dishes that blew our minds. The Flaggy Shore oysters stood out as did the fried chicken with Korean honey butter sauce, sushi rice, and fried egg – a combination that shouldn’t work but absolutely does. Unable to choose between desserts, we ordered one of each before waddling out for a much-needed walk. 

The Castle Experience 

Bunratty Castle and Folk Park offer a unique opportunity to enjoy a cigar in a truly historic setting. While smoking isn’t allowed inside the castle or its immediate grounds, the surrounding area and nearby Durty Nelly’s pub provide outdoor spaces where you can smoke in the shadows of the medieval castle. On the evening of our visit, the castle was lit up in Emerald green in the evening, prompting me to fire up a Rocky Patel Emerald for the occasion. 

Weather Wisdom 

Irish weather is famously unpredictable, but most outdoor smoking areas are well-equipped with heaters, covered sections, and windbreaks. Pack accordingly—a two- or four-jet  lighter will come in clutch in the high winds. The locals seem unfazed by weather that sends tourists scurrying indoors, and there’s something invigorating about enjoying a cigar in the fresh Irish air, even with a bit of mist in the wind. 

The Irish Approach 

What struck me most about Ireland’s outdoor smoking culture is how naturally social it becomes. Without the option to retreat to indoor lounges, smokers gather in outdoor spaces usually void of TVs that hinder conversation, so talk flows effortlessly. 

The Irish have mastered the art of making outdoor spaces comfortable and welcoming. Perhaps we got lucky with the weather but from bustling terraces in Dublin to secluded courtyards in Dingle, these spaces made it so that I didn’t miss smoking indoors. 

The Journey’s End 

Ireland may not offer traditional cigar lounges, but what it provides is something perhaps even better—the chance to enjoy fine cigars in some of the world’s most beautiful outdoor settings. Whether it’s your favorite smoke during a round of links golf, the magical atmosphere around a medieval castle, or the vibrant street life visible from Dublin’s terraces, Ireland’s outdoor cigar culture offers experiences that no indoor lounge could match. 

The key to cigar enjoyment in Ireland isn’t finding the perfect lounge—it’s embracing the outdoor lifestyle that makes this country so special. Stock up, pack for four seasons of weather, and prepare to discover that the most memorable cigar moments will happen under the Irish sky. 

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This article appeared in the Sep/Oct 2025 issue. Subscribe today to get the magazine in your mailbox.

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